01 Jun

Our recommendations for a clean up crew.

In our experience the clean up crew should consist of :-

Trochus snails - about six for a 90 litre tank, but more for a bigger tank. Will eat algae on glass and rocks.

Cerith snails - same quantity. Will eat algae on glass and rocks and keep sand aerated.

Nassarius snails - same quantity. Will eat left over food on the sand and keep sand aerated.

Conch - two for a 90 litre tank. Will eat algae and aerate sand bed.

These should be introduced as and when there is food to support them. So, for instance, if your tank has matured to the point of adding livestock, add the nassarius. Add the other snails when algae starts to appear.

If you add them sooner, be prepared to feed them on marine algae tablets or dried seaweed sheets.

A very useful chart to get the correct weight of salt per litre if you make your own seawater up.


A bit of a lesson learned on this.

We originally set this tank up with eco sand which is made of crushed seashells and is supposed to replicate coral sand. We have had a few problems over the few months it has been running, like water going cloudy occasionally and conch and nassarius snails not wanting to walk on it.

So, we took it out of the tank, thoroughly washed it and put it back in. Still the conchs and nassarius reacted like it was hurting them, so I looked closely and saw that the broken pieces of shell, although very small, had sharp edges which must have been hurting the snails foot (think of broken eggshells or sharp grit to keep slugs and snails off your delicate plants).

Today we took out the offending eco sand and replaced with coral sand. The eco sand will now be used to protect seedlings in the greenhouse !

Once the water clears a bit more (no matter how much you rinse the sand it always clouds the water !), the conchs and nassarius will hopefully like their new environment and do the cleaning job they enjoy !



Tankmate Guide

What's safe? What's not?

by Kevin Frenzel & Renee Hix

Not all seahorse keepers are satisfied with a species only tank. For those who choose to keep a more diverse aquarium environment, it's important to put the seahorses' needs first and select tankmates with caution. With careful planning and consideration, seahorse tanks are no longer confined to being species only, but can house a wide variety of life. Seahorse tanks are becoming more and more beautiful by the day, with many keepers diving into setups containing seahorses, and peaceful fish, as well as many species of corals and macro algae.

Over the past few years, the thousands of members of seahorse.org continue to share their experiences and observations in keeping seahorses with other species. Using this continually growing knowledge base, we have attempted to compile an exhaustive list as to what is safe, and what is not. There will always be some exceptions based on the "personality" of individual specimens, but for the most part, we hope this list will be a helpful and accurate guide. Please bear in mind that it is best to become familiar with keeping seahorses, and that your seahorses should always be well established in the system before adding tankmates.

The rating system is generally based on the following criteria: temperament/territoriality, swimming patterns, food competition, venoms or toxins, and in some cases, the species' inability to survive in home aquaria. One must bear in mind that there may be some exceptions to a rating based on the temperament of certain specimens, however, the ratings are based on the USUAL specimen's behavior.

0 - represents close to zero risk. There is no competition for food. The fish are mostly benthic. There is not an issue with aggression. Corals would not have the ability to sting.

1 - still pretty safe. There could be some, albeit minor competition for food. The fish will be found in the water column but are not fast swimmers, and therefore, less likely to cause seahorse stress. There are really no issues with aggression to speak of. Corals are still no danger to the seahorses although the corals may contain feeding tentacles (no sweepers).

2 - these are a bit riskier, and you should proceed with caution. Many of the fish will be more present in the water column and may have faster or more erratic swimming patterns. There may be some competition for food as well as a possible chance for aggression towards the seahorses from the fish and inverts.

3 - I wouldn't keep any of these critters with my seahorses, but you're welcome to try. 3's are on the dangerous side. The fish will not only be in the water column but often have a distinct presence. There is a good chance for food competition and aggression. The corals have the ability to sting or typically don't do well. If you're planning to try anything that is ranked as a 3, please have alternative plans to house the species if a problem arises.

4 - these specimens either have no business in a seahorse tank, or should not be kept in captive systems due to failure to thrive.

If you have any questions, or would like to contribute your own observations of species listed or not listed, please visit the Tankmate forum here on Seahorse.Org.


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